Reader, I forgot about pancake day. It is a truth universally acknowledged that every Newsletter Writer should peg their content to a seasonal event, be it pancakes, Easter or the first shoots of wild garlic. Opening Instagram right now is to be visually rinsed by pancake variations, maple syrup steadily encroaching lava-like down the precipice of a pancake stack. Lacy crepes assaulted with an avalanche of twinkling grains. In the mood for pancakes now? Well, tough, because you’ve got KALE. What can I say? I don’t have kids. I bring you bold Brassicas this week because they have been a gift throughout the winter months, and it’s still cold here in London (yet why are some of you wearing shorts?!). The two absolute ride-or-dies from the Brassica family ever-present in my kitchen are tenderstem broccoli and kale. Now don’t freak out; I realise kale can be gnarly. However, treated like this, it becomes - dare I say it - quite addictive, and is one of my go-to’s when it’s late and I cannot be bothered really making anything at all, but yet feel I need something half decent for health. You know that excellent ‘crispy seaweed’ from Cantonese takeaways that isn’t really seaweed at all? Well, it’s kale. OK, almost: it’s spring greens/cabbage. This is a cousin of the takeaway version, I suppose, but there’s no frying involved. Fried crispy kale is, of course, a thing, but that’s not something I want to get into on a weeknight, which is invariably when I make this. It’s rubbed with sesame and olive oils, five spice and salt and roasted briefly in the oven. That’s it. The resulting texture is tender in some places but crisp on the edges, and it’s a top-notch garnish for Things on Rice. My Thing of Choice being a fried egg with plenty of sesame seeds and chilli oil. Who needs pancakes? (OK, but maybe eat this first).
The first time you make this, you’ll need to figure out the relationship between your oven and kale. My oven will cook it perfectly in 15 minutes at 180°C, and I suggest that’s where you start. Roasted Five Spice Kale 180g shredded kale (this was the size of the bag I bought - don’t worry about 100g here or there) Preheat the oven to 180°C fan. If the kale hasn’t been washed already, give it a rinse and dry it well (a salad spinner is helpful here, but kitchen paper will do). Mix the sesame oil, olive oil and five spice with a generous pinch of sea salt. Place the kale on a baking tray and pour the mixture over it, then massage it into the kale, making sure it’s evenly coated. Roast for 10 minutes, then give it a toss and roast for a further 5-10 minutes, depending on your oven.
SUPERSIZE ME! This week, I’m sharing a favourite recipe: Stilton and broccoli rarebit. It’s guaranteed to hit the spot come lunchtime, plus you’re getting your greens! AND FINALLY… If you enjoy my writing, you can read more of it on Scribehound Food, a new community of 30 leading food writers, including - incredibly - me. It’s not recipe-based like this newsletter, but instead, I’m diving deep into two of my favourite topics: sandwiches and BBQ. I’m starting with one of the world’s most popular sandwiches, drawing on my background in psychology to explain why it’s so enduringly popular. It’s different to anything I’ve done before, and I’m super excited to be there! Head over to Scribehound Food to find out more. Until next time, Flavour Fans x
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Tuesday, March 4, 2025
Flavour Nugget #18: roasted five spice kale
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