How far is the average person willing to walk for a really good taco? It depends on a lot of factors, including ability, weather, and the character of the neighborhood. Half a mile is generally considered the upper limit of walking distance around a transit station, assuming a favorable environment. When the weather is hot or conditions involve crossing a freeway or walking next to a high speed arterial, what's known as a "walkshed" can diminish to a quarter mile or less. Among its current lineup of locations, Taco Boys offers a spectrum of options within that range.
tacos
The original location of Taco Boys is at the east end of Roosevelt Row, half a mile east of the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. A more recent addition to the Taco Boys family is found along the I-17 frontage road, which is not a terribly pedestrian-oriented environment despite being half a mile from the new Metro Parkway station. Two other current locations are in Tempe. One is a quarter mile south of the University/Rural light rail station, providing a convention location for customers living and working on or around the Arizona State University campus.
barbacoa plate
The other Tempe location, located on Mill Avenue, is now the crown jewel of the growing Taco Boys empire. It's found four blocks south of the Mill Avenue / Third Street light rail station and directly along the route of the Tempe Streetcar. Of all the boys, it has the most pleasant outdoor dining setup with an expansive patio. There are some variations in decor with images of ASU mascots at the two Tempe restaurants. Otherwise, the format is nearly identical at all locations with crowded rows of tables, a bustling salsa bar, and a counter where orders are placed.
vampiros
Customers at the original Phoenix location can look up and see a sculpture of a cow's head looking back down from high above the counter. The imitation cabeza indicates an emphasis on beef, and bags of mesquite charcoal suggest how the meat is prepared. Taco Boys offer six options for taco fillings, four of them cow-derived. The carne asada is the house specialty, and it is evident not only from the enticing scent of mesquite grilling, but also the nearly constant "chop, chop, chop" sound created as the cooks attack grilled skirt steak with their cleavers.
quesadillas fajita style
The result is a filling of minced, charred beef, seasoned only with a bit of salt and lime, placed on top of or within tortillas and ready for accessorization at the salad/salsa bar found in each of the restaurants. Among the other beef offerings, the barbacoa is equally delicious, albeit completely different. More tender and yielding than the carne asada, its supple character makes it well-suited to blending with cheese in a quesadilla. The cabeza is even more tender with a fattiness verging on short rib. Tripa is of course completely different with its chewy texture.
burrito
The two non-beef offerings are pollo asado and pork al pastor, both serviceable choices but unlikely to displace the beef selections as the menu favorites. All the meats can be made into tacos, burritos, quesadillas, or vampiros (a variant of the tostada in which the tortilla is crisped to order on a griddle). A do-it-yourself option is the plato, a generous platter of meat with creamy refried beans and a multitude of tortillas. For something with a completely different format, the carne asada fries are just three layers: potatoes, cheese, and meat waiting to be accessorized.
carne asada fries
Although Taco Boys is clearly a meat-centered operation, there is a "vegetarian option" listed on the menu. It's a cheese quesadilla with roasted onions. There's also the option to order a bean and cheese burrito. For those not wanting an entirely meatless meal but desirous of some vegetables to balance the protein on the plate, there's an option to upgrade any entree to "fajita style." For a small charge, any burrito, taco, quesadilla, vampiro, or plato can be enhanced with grilled bell peppers and onions, adding plenty of flavor, color, and nutrients in the process.
salsa bar bounty
Of course, there's even more botanical bounty at the salad/salsa bar. This well-stocked centerpiece of the dining room features three salsas: a mild, creamy avocado condiment; a green salsa of medium intensity; and a fiery red beast for the highest level of spice. Other choices include fat radishes, sliced cucumbers, pico de gallo, minced cilantro and onion, shredded cabbage, wedges of lime, and thick slabs of carrots. It's a lot and to accommodate the ample payload, Taco Boys gives each customer an entire plate to fill at the bar after ordering.
mangonada
With so much bounty at the salsa bar, it's possible to view a trip there as an appetizer course. Just dip some of those radishes, carrots, or cucumbers in the avocado dip while waiting for tacos. For dessert, there is a new partnership with Sunset Freeze, a local purveyor of frozen ices in flavors such as banana, horchata, and mango. The last option can be upgraded to a mangonada with Tajin, chamoy, and a tamarind straw. A tall, icy cup of aqua fresca like horchata or barley-based cebada helps extinguish the fire of the salsas. A bottle of beer can do the same.
Let that Man Go
The Mill Avenue restaurant goes all the way with a full bar and cocktails like Let that Man Go, essentially a mango margarita with a clever name. It is not only the Taco Boy with the biggest adult beverage selection, but fortunately also the one most accessible via light rail and streetcar. The other three mentioned earlier are accessible to varying degrees; however, Taco Boys is growing even more with off-rail locations on the east and west sides of Phoenix. Regardless of the location, weather, and built environment, the tacos these boys provide are worth a walk.
620 E. Roosevelt St., Phoenix AZ 85004
9016 N. Black Canyon Highway, Phoenix AZ 85051
1015 S. Rural Rd. #101, Tempe AZ 85281
699 S Mill Ave #119, Tempe AZ 85281
https://aztacoboys.com
