March 2021 newsletter

Is it spring yet?

Mar 1

Where am I? Or where was I? Ok, here I am. We’re less than three weeks away from spring as life during the last twelve months continues to seem like it’s on endless replay. France went into major lockdown last year around this time, then came out of it with life going back to “normal” as people flocked to cafés and restaurants, then took summer vacations…before going back into a curfew situation this winter.

Because of apartment issues - mainly my bathroom being ripped out due to a leak, and an entire wall and adjacent shower being demolished to replace a water main that flooded my bedroom, I decided to go to finally take the long-delayed trip to the U.S. I had planned, which sadly canceled my well-planned Drinking French book tour last spring.

That, coupled with the fact my bedroom wall and shower are being torn out to address yet another leak by people that aren’t fond of wearing masks, which I have to plead with them to either wear a mask or to put it over their nose. (Bakers are sticklers for hygiene; it’s part of our DNA.) I always wonder how they would feel if they were wheeled into surgery and saw the medical team wearing their masks around their necks?

Someone remarked on social media that if you travel during the pandemic, don’t post about traveling during the pandemic. But my 12- to 18-hour absence from Instagram evoked a cavalcade of messages about my whereabouts and/or my well-being. I didn’t realize a one-day pause from posting a picture would generate so many comments, but that’s 2021 for ya. But yes, I’m fine.

I took all precautions before flying, including multiple Covid-19 tests and double-masking in the airport and on the plane (Romain took me to the airport so I avoided the usually-packed RER train), and I felt safer on the plane than hanging around unmasked folks in closed quarters, who roll their eyes whenever I ask them to wear a mask. (Another told me she is “allergic” to masks, including the 100% undyed cotton one that I have that I offered her. I don’t know how she manages to wear clothes, but I didn’t want to bring that up.) Since I put most of 2020 on pause, I decided to (safely) take on a few things that were anxiously waiting for me in the U.S.

Romain teases me relentlessly about packing what he thinks is too much food on any trip we take, but he’s always happy when I pull out something delicious to eat (i.e., not food from the train station or airport), so I was fortunate/wise to bring along the jambon-beurre sandwich shown at the top of this newsletter, which was quite a bit better than the sandwich fromage (below) offered on the plane. Although kudos to the excellent flight crew for doing a great job, like so many others in the service industry have been doing during this challenging time. They’re all rockstars.

So much for not talking about travel. I quarantined to be on the safe side, so was thinking of doing a marathon of 24/7 Instagram Lives to keep me occupied but they limit Lives to four hours, so I’m out of luck. And you can count yourself lucky that you’re not stuck with me on replay.

I recently did a Q+A on Instagram (archived here) and people used to ask me things about where to find the best baguette in Paris, or what my favorite bistro was.

This time around it was, “When will France be opening back up to visitors?”

Good question! But that’s probably a query for the healthy minister or government, not someone who bakes cookies. People wanted to see my apartment and to be honest, I’m not so keen on showing people my bedroom, although I don’t mind showing my bathroom (above) - so go figure. Others asked how I learned French, where I met Romain, and a slew of folks asked, “Where can I get corn tortillas in Paris?”

For some reason, I’ve become a reference on corn tortillas. I don’t want to step on any cultural toes, but here ya go: BocaMexa, Mexicoeur, La Fonda, La Esquinita, Los Cuates, and if you live in Paris you can order taco meals delivered from Robert Mendoza or Carlos at ParisMexico. I tried them both and can report they’re both excellent and come with a stack of fresh corn tortillas. I didn’t tell people they could make their own, which people tell me I should do all the time because I think we’re all tapped-out from cooking and washing dishes. (And I’m happy to support local businesses and restaurants.) I do dishes for a living so am no stranger to sinkfuls of dishes, but even now I’m reaching a breaking point. Which brings me to another question I am frequently asked: “What meal will you have first when restaurants in Paris reopen?” That’s a no-brainer…

While we all wait for things to reopen, you can check out my interview with Courtney Traub of Paris Unlocked here and where I spoke to Gabriella Gershenson for the Wall Street Journal about Parisian hot chocolate, with a recipe. (Possible paywall) I also talked to Yanique and her book club at My Parisian Life on Instagram Live which was so much fun!

Over the last few months, many of you were asking me how to get a signed copy of Drinking French, which wasn’t easy to answer, but there will soon be bookplate signed copies of my books at Book Larder, Omnivore Books, and Now Serving LA. If you’d like a copy, give them a call or drop them a line, making a note that you want a signed copy. In Paris, they’ve got signed copies at Café Oberkampf and Café Méricourt.

My laptop is épuisée, or exhausted and heading to the hospital this month. Like most of us, it’s been on hyperdrive this past year and is in need of a refresh. So expect some interruptions while I find a place that can replace a MacBook battery for a computer purchased in 2014, which I’m learning is like trying to find a hand-cranked stand mixer. Bon courage! (Good luck!)

-David

Links I’m Likin’

Omar Sy and Bradley Cooper cook together. (YouTube, in French)

..and here’s a run-down of the locations where Lupin was shot in Paris. (Secrets of Paris)

Christina Chaey on why she’s cooking less. (Bon Appétit)

14 Tips on being a polite houseguest in a French home - one thing not mentioned; if you like a big, plush pillow (and towels), bring your own. (French today)

In response to last month’s homemade Butterfinger recipe, former food editor (thanks T.U.! who said she’s made it with Skippy…) suggested this one: Miracle Peanut Butter Crunch. (Food & Wine)

In a Mafia stronghold, a cooking school offers an alternative to working for the mob. (reasonstobecheerful)

Rare & beautiful apples from around the world. (Atlas Obscura)

Reinventing (and make ethical) foie gras? One company thinks it’s possible… (Gourmey)

A food blog turns 11 and Sally in Dubai reflects on how much food blogging has changed during that time. (My Custard Pie)

French bakers hopeful “the humble baguette” will get UNESCO recognition, although I have a quibble with calling baguettes “humble” (Reuters/CNN)

Recent Recipes and Posts from My Blog

Coffee Caramel Panna Cotta takes the traditional Italian ‘custard’ to new heights with a luscious caramel flavor and a few bracing shots of espresso. It’s a no-bake dessert that’s easier than you think!

The Jaguar cocktail is a racy rascal, a clever blend of tequila, Chartreuse, and Amer Picon, the famed (and elusive) French apéritif. But don’t worry, I offer some homegrown alternatives from the U.S. and France, although a little birdie told me grapefruit juice works well in its place, too.

There’s no use denying it. Like Claire Saffitz, I’m also a Dessert Person. She cracked the code for Oatmeal Pecan Praline Cookies with her chewy take on the American classic. Even if you don’t make the cookies, I had to hide the pecan praline while I finished the cookie dough because I couldn’t keep my paws off it. (Claire is slated to be a guest on my IG Live this month - stay tuned!)

I’ve been brining pork ever since I arrived in France and took advantage of all the pork available at the charcuteries. The French are big fans of brined pork, and while you can buy it demi-sel (brined), I do it myself. Check out the super simple technique and recipe in Brined Pork Roast that turns a typical pork roast into something special.

Hey Subscribers!

A few folks have asked me about the difference between my regular newsletter (this one) and the new paid option. This one comes out once a month and is free. But for those who want more, you can become a paid subscriber and get additional content. Last month paid subscribers enjoyed an in-depth interview with Heather Stimmler of Secrets of Paris, my thoughts on the Dilemma of Authenticity, and a semi-rant I wrote asking if you want Google telling you what to cook? Subscribers also get access to the archives, including recipes. Because I’m new to this, and maybe so are you, you can get 10% off an annual subscription if you sign up before March 7th. But no pressure - happy to have you as a paid or non-paid subscriber. I like free stuff, too. So it’s all good : )

Get 10% off annual subscription here!

Lastly…pandemic-induced fantasizing over real estate? Dreaming of a terrace or balcony. (Or in my case, a place that doesn’t flood.) It’s nice to see I’m not the only one…