Life between two cultures can pose some real risks. The other day, I almost put toothpaste (top) on my foot instead of analgesic cream (bottom). They’re both blue and white tubes, they both have U, L, and E in the names, and they both end in gel. Fortunately, I didn’t get that backward and put the anti-inflammatory cream on my teeth, but I do remember when I first met my French partner, Romain, he remarked on my big, white teeth, which is a cultural difference. (I’ve not seen tooth whitening strips or tooth whitening clinics in France. I do, however, notice how white everyone’s teeth are when I’m watching American television.) In related news, I’ve been thinking about the challenges it takes to live between two cultures. You don’t just read and talk differently, but you think differently as well. You need to. When I’m at Roissy airport in Paris, in the security line, at every bend and turn, if you’re not on your toes, people will try to pass you. I didn’t realize how much attention it requires just to wait in line — and keep your place. (Pro tip: I put my carry-on suitcase next to me, rather than in front or behind me, which makes a very effective barrier, although you do have to brave the waves of frustration burning behind you when those behind can’t jump in front of you.) I also remember the days when people in France thought the internet and sharing ideas on the internet were bad ideas. Criticism in France was generally left to professionals, as was politics. (France had a special school for training people to be high-ranking politicians, which was recently abolished.) Back then, people told me that they didn’t think that everyone should be allowed to give their opinion. That is, until people in France realized that they could give their opinion…which broke the dam. For me, I like being able to dip into both cultures*, although Romain has noted that my American optimism has faded, which I guess is natural after two renovations and three moves. Our current renovation is nearing the end, and anyone who has renovated knows how frustrating and disconcerting it can be. Fortunately, this time around the people we were working with were honest, (mostly) diligent, and competent, so I didn’t have the same issues as last time. But still, this week marks our twelfth month…and hopefully we’re nearing the end. 🤞🤞 (A friend who moved a lot in her childhood once told me, “Moving is a thankless job.” Which is true. No one says after a move, “You did a great job!” So next time a friend or family member moves, be sure to compliment them on a job well done.)
Moving, however, is a good chance to tidy up and assess what you’ve got. For some reason (actually, I know why…) I had a lot of dried chiles that I’d brought back from the States. (I also have a few dozen tortillas from Vista Hermosa in my freezer, which I moved with the same care as someone might move a collection of fine art.) Among all the cuisines Americans abroad seem to miss most is Mexican food, which to be honest, hasn’t always translated well to other continents.  But now in Paris we have Mexican épiceries, and some even sell fresh corn tortillas so that we don’t have to suffer through the cardboardy Old El Paso ones sold in the produits exotiques section at the supermarché. I even learned to make them, above. But like pain au levain, pâté en croûte, and wine, I’m fine leaving making them to the professionals. For DIYers, though, Old El Paso offers up a powder called guacamole mix (whose second ingredient is, for some reason, dehydrated glucose…), which is accompanied on their website with a recipe for a guacamole with green peas and mint, as well as a recipe for Spanish Guacamole. There was not the same (i.e.; zéro) outrage in France, as there was when Melissa Clark put peas in her guacamole — and non, the French president didn’t chime in on the matter either, as the U.S. president did. I wonder what Monsieur le Président would say about the “Kit French Taco,” which contains an obvious typo since if you live in France, French tacos always has an “s” at the end. And that ain’t the only mistake…but I’ll let the others go.
Fortunately, Paris restaurants continue to reflect the melting pot of France, and I mentioned a few in a recent round-up of new and favorite restaurants in Paris. If you’re visiting from the U.S., you may not be craving Mexican food when you travel, unless you’re in Mexico. But the rest of us are. So I got to work on whittling down my dried chile stash to make red enchilada sauce, so I could make Chilaquiles.
The recipe I found online made a lot (and if you try it, in step #6, you may want to use a Dutch oven rather than a skillet, since you’re adding 8-10 cups of sauce to the pan, unless you have an extremely large skillet), which I made enchiladas with, using my first — and only — homemade tortillas. But I need to get cracking on using the ones in my freezer…before my next move.
Some recent guests came to town, and one of their first questions was: “Where can we get the best croissant in Paris?” I felt like a dope because I’m supposed to know those kinds of things. But the more I thought about it, I realize that it’s a tough question as there are so many factors to consider. At a bakery that usually has really good croissants, one day the baker might be harried and take the croissants out of the oven a little too early, so they might not be as browned as I like them. Another variable: Everyone seems to like their baguettes, croissants, and palmiers baked to various stages of doneness. One bakery I know of has a special rack of bien cuite baguettes, for those who like their baguettes well-cooked:
Furthermore, if you show up when the croissants have just come out of the oven, they’re going to be sublime. But if you go at 4pm, the croissants have been sitting out all day and aren’t the same as they were at 9am. Some places, like The French Bastards, make them quite large and voluptuous while other places, such as Le Petit Grain, leaven their croissants with sourdough and are more modestly sized. So it’s hard for me to say, “Go to______,” since there’s a lot riding on it, and I don’t want to ruin anyone’s vacation. Years ago I made the erreur of writing about what I felt was the best croissant in Paris. Years later, a group gathered to do a tasting of multiple croissants, notably including the one that I liked from my bakery — and I got name-checked in the process — with half of the tasters coming to the conclusion that the supermarket croissants were the best of all they tried. But the bakery where I got my croissants had been sold and is now Maison Landemaine, which (usually) has very good croissants. However, I prefer to share a list of favorite bakeries in Paris, and let people find their own.
Okay, I need to get back to the renovation. We finally found a place in our new apartment to put the pâtissier letters I found at a flea market in Paris many years ago, which have been patiently kept in a drawer for twelve years.
I didn’t snag the accompanying boulanger letters, but since I’m not a bread baker, these will do. (And I’ve yet to find tortillier, but maybe someday I’ll work up to that.) In the meantime, with spring around the corner, we’ve got a quick trip to the Basque region of Spain planned — and I’m not expecting to see any Spanish guacamole, but I’m hoping to eat a lot of pintxos, drink a little cider, and while I’d like to take a dip in the ocean, I think it’s a little early. Will have to wait for our trip to Hawaii to do that! -David
Links I’m Likin’Where has all the Chartreuse gone? (via EVERYDAY DRINKING) As France embraces fried chicken, Popeye’s opens first restaurant in France, in Paris (although there was one outside of Toulouse, but it shut down, so not sure why the media is calling the new one “the first”), with plans to open 300 more. (Forbes) What it takes to become a food stylist. (LA Times/possible paywall) The rise and fall of TV’s first celebrity chef. (Messy Nessy Chic) World’s Fanciest Toilet reopens in Paris. (Apartment Therapy) French publisher says non to revising Charlie and the Chocolate Factory to edit certain references to “gender, race and physical appearance.” (France24) Airbnb giving away a one-night stay at the Garnier Opéra House in Paris. (CNN) Who knew there’s a culture war over gas and induction stoves? I thought my stove was just…a stove. (via Your Local Epidemiologist) The underground cooks in a Singaporean prison. (Atlas Obscura) How Betty Crocker, and other legacy cookbooks, are staying relevant. (Washington Post/Unlocked) Major strike in France on March 7th which’ll likely affect transportation and other services. If traveling to, from, and within the country, you may want to contact the relevant company to inquire about modifying your plans. (Sortir à Paris)
New Posts and Recipes
My Meyer lemon tree came with five lemons on it (one got lost on the way home from the marché…), so I revisited my Whole Lemon Bars, which you can make either with standard lemons if you like things very tangy, or Meyer lemons if you want them more perfumed. And if you find one in the street in Paris, please return it. No questions asked.
It’s hard to keep up with all the great places opening in Paris, but here’s a list of restaurants, and other food shops, that I’ve been enjoying lately, and I hope you will too — whether you live here, or are here on a visit.
Having decades of recipes to choose from, I do like to go back and revisit my favorites. And it’s been too long since I made this Philadelphia-style Chocolate Ice Cream, which gets its Philly moniker because it’s not custard-based (so can be easily veganized with a plant-based milk and soy or coconut cream), so it will satisfy anyone’s craving for those who don’t want to make a custard or are avoiding eggs. Just chill, churn…and dive in.
Ever since I wrote The Perfect Scoop, people have been asking me about what ice cream maker I use. Things have changed in the past few years, so I’ve written a new post about buying an ice cream machine since summer is coming, and even though some say they aren’t into “single-use appliances” — you can use it for making frozen cocktails — I included a few recipes in the updated twentieth-anniversary edition of The Perfect Scoop to get you started.
In just two days, it’ll be the first anniversary of our apartment renovation. Um…yay? The good news is that we’ve reached the final stage of it, so we can unbury ourselves from tarps, dust, and tools as we finish the last phase of the construction. (Paris Apartment posts are for paid subscribers, and many of you have been following along.) The bad news is that it’s still not done. Our main contractor has decided he’s going to retire — at 50 — but is sticking around until the end of 2023. Hopefully, we’ll be done by then.
One doesn’t necessarily associate South Africa with brownies (nor does one associate Spain with guacamole…), but Phil’s brownies are truly fantastic. Deep, dark chocolate, crunchy nuts, and oozing chocolate chips made these a favorite in my kitchen in Paris. They were gone by the end of the day!
A Paris comedian sees some fascinating thing while riding the métro in Paris…  [There are parts 1, 2, 3, and 5, too.]
*One cultural difference that I once overheard: An American woman was trying to explain to her French boyfriend what a “feel good” movie was. He didn’t seem convinced when he replied, “Why would I want to feel good after seeing a movie?”
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Tuesday, February 28, 2023
March 2023 newsletter
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