One of the uglier moments of the 2024 Presidential campaign was a claim by conspiracy theorist Laura Loomer that if Kamala Harris were elected, "the White House will smell like curry." Questioned about that racist remark, JD Vance claimed that he "make[s] a mean chicken curry." As repugnant as the whole discussion was, it seemed to ignore the reality that curry and other dishes associated with the cuisines of South Asia can have enticing scents that many people love. In downtown Phoenix, "Aroma India" seems to acknowledge that in its name.
Desi bao buns
Aroma India fills a longstanding gap in Downtown, which has not previously had an Indian restaurant on any sort of sustained basis. Located at Third Street and McKinley in the Evans-Churchill neighborhood, the restaurant is five blocks from the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. Bike racks are found next door outside the Moon Tower apartment building. Aroma India occupies a vintage house dwarfed by the newer residential structure next to it. The location has previously been home to a Mexican and a Polish restaurant before assuming its current role.
bhuna gosht
To proclaim a new identity as an Indian restaurant, there is a colorful mural with joined hands framed by the words "namaste" and "welcome" facing the patio. It's an attractive outdoor dining space during mild weather, but without much shade or cooling, it becomes less useful during the summer. Instead, the compact dining room offers a pleasant interior space with wooden tables, walls, and floors. Overhead screens display videos of Indian cooking and travel. A smaller room lies to the side, providing an option for groups that seek a semi-private dining option.
vegetable biryani
In the first few months of the restaurant's operation, the menu has changed several times before setting into a format of mostly northern Indian Punjabi food augmented by a selection of dosa, the savory discs somewhat similar to crepes that originate in southern Indian, as well as some Indo-Chinese dishes. A chalkboard next to the small bar displays daily specials that are featured in value-priced lunch combinations. Unfortunately, these are offered only as takeout. For those eating on site, the full menu, minus the specials on the board, is available throughout the day.
chicken vindaloo
The appetizers include familiar snacks like crisp samosas stuffed with potatoes and peas. Many other starters have a Chinese influence with soy sauce playing a role in dishes like hakka noodles and fried vegetables featured in both the gobi (cauliflower) and baby corn Manchurian choices. A trio of Desi bao buns with a filling of either paneer, a type of Indian cheese, or chicken curry is one of the most unique and original items on the menu. The steamed buns are small but the overflow of ingredients makes them a filling appetizer or even a light entree.
chole bhatura
For those who do appreciate the aroma of curry, Aroma India offers several places to start, and they all begin with chicken. The Aroma special chicken curry, the butter chicken, and the chicken tikka masala are all mild poultry preparations, differentiated from one another mainly by the proportions of spices, cream, and tomato in their sauces. Chicken vindaloo, on the other hand, is more fiery with both the heat of chilies and the tang of vinegar boosting its flavor. Returning to a gentler touch, chicken saagwala is simmered in a creamy spinach sauce.
bharwan baigan curry
Other meat curries feature lamb or goat as their protein. The Aroma lamb curry incorporates a spicy masala sauce, while the bhuna gosht has a somewhat different array of flavors and a more yogurt-based sauce. Vegetarian choices include bharwan baigan, a curry containing roasted eggplant, and other dishes based on chickpeas, lentils, okra, and mushrooms. Paneer also serves as a protein dish in several meatless entrees, although the restaurant offers the same dishes with tofu instead, the absence of cheese bringing them closer to being vegan.
spinach dosa
Breads include teardrop-shaped naan and discs of roti with optional flavors like garlic added. Chole butura crosses the divide between starch and entree with puffy fried bread served alongside a chickpea curry. For another type of meal combining bread and filling, the dosas include not only the familiar masala and mysore options, but also a spinach dosa full of coarsely chopped greens, sauteed onions, and hot chutney. All of the dosa come with a trio of accompaniments: coconut and tomato chutneys and a cup of sambar, a spicy lentil soup.
rasmalai
While all the curries and entrees come with plain rice, several biryani dishes are available with vegetables, meats, and herbs cooked in a pilaf with saffron and seasonings. A side of yogurt is provided to moisten the grain, and yogurt is an essential part of the marinade for tandoori chicken, shrimp, and fish entrees. Aroma India offers three desserts found at many Indian restaurants: a simple rice pudding; gulab jamun, balls of cheese in sweet syrup; and rasmalai, which also uses a type of cheese seasoned with cardamon and served in a creamy sauce.
mango lassi mai tai
The restaurant has a full bar with an emphasis on Indian whiskeys. Some cocktails incorporate Indian elements, as well. The mango lassi mai tai, for example, takes a classic Indian yogurt drink and adds rum and a pineapple twist. The result is tropical in flavor but more tangy than sweet due largely to the presence of yogurt in the drink. With the outcome of the 2024 election, it is more likely the White House kitchen will be associated with well-done steak and ketchup than curry, but the delightful aroma of Indian food is welcome and noticeable on Third Street.
801 N. 3rd St,, Phoenix AZ 85004
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