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I chose oyster mushrooms for their substantial trunks and frilly tops, frying until their undersides umber before slipping in soft slabs of butter and garlic. Then, soy. They slurp everything inwards. I’ve been doing this thing with toast where I crust it in sesame seeds, and today, crumpets got the same treatment. The trick is to make a sort of egg white + olive oil glue, then dunk the bread into it, whack it into the oven, and hey presto, all the seeds are stuck onto a giant crouton, crostini, whatever you want to call it. The food writer Özlem Warren described it as ‘like a cheat’s simit’, which I loved. I’ve relished the toast theme these past few weeks. Next Tuesday, we will refresh, even though technically it will still be March (of course, there will be another toasty recipe for paid subs this Friday). To round off the month, I asked a few of my favourite people what they love to put on toast. Some cracking suggestions here. Enjoy! Rukmini Iyer, author of At the Table with Rukmini Iyer. The boiling water tip for the spinach and chickpeas is actually genius?!
Mark Diacono, author of Mark Diacono’s Abundance. Firstly, kalettes RULE. Perfect miniature cabbages! Also, his second choice is inspired. This man knows how to live.
Ed Smith, author of Rocket & Squash and the just-released Peckish. I love how Ed went to town on this. Toast is my late-night, don’t really need to eat but am bored snack. Specifcally slightly over-toasted sourdough, and you need to have everything ready for speedy spreading – so the butter sizzles when it meets the toast. It’s all very basic; nothing original. But if anyone gives you anything more ‘cheffy’ than these, they’re delusional. In order of ascending levels of effort/alchemy:
Two slices to begin with. Often a third. Never just one. Rosie Mackean, author of The Dinner Party suggested these GLORIOUS toasts
And to round us off, another gorgeous Rosie in Rosie Birkett, author of A Lot on Her Plate.
A fitting way to say farewell, I’m sure you agree. Although, of course, it’s never actually goodbye when it comes to toast. Bet you’re craving a slice now, eh? Helen x
Soy Butter Mushroom Crumpets Recipe 1 egg white
Beat the egg white to soft peaks, then stream in the oil, whisking, stopping as soon as it’s incorporated. Spread out the sesame seeds on a plate. Dip the top of the crumpet into the egg mix, then the seeds, making sure the crumpet is fully coated. Place on a lined baking tray and cook for 15-20 minutes until crisp. You want the crumpets cooked before you start the mushrooms, as the latter come together quickly. Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add a dash of olive oil, then add the mushrooms in a single layer. Let them cook undisturbed for a couple of minutes until they have some colour. Turn the mushrooms gently and add the butter, garlic and soy. Let everything melt and sizzle and come together. The mushrooms will release their water at this point, so keep the heat on medium. Have a taste, you may not want any salt due to the soy (I added a pinch). Once it’s all looking emulsified and lovely, remove from the heat and discard the garlic cloves. Spoon the mushrooms and their butter over the crumpets, topping with chives.
Until next time, Flavour Fans x
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Tuesday, March 24, 2026
Flavour Nugget #72: Soy buttered mushroom crumpets
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