Flavour nugget #28: Cambridge sauce (don't let the name put you off)Sounds dreary, is a voluptuous wonder
First things first: I hate the name of this sauce. This is probably because I instinctively recoil from anything that sounds stuffy, and ‘Cambridge Sauce’ sounds so stuffy. Sorry, Cambridge! Harsh? Possibly. But you’ll admit it’s not as appealing as other sauce names. Consider chimichurri, pico de gallo (‘rooster’s beak!’), or even reliable old mustard. Good job, then, that Cambridge sauce tastes great. Like a cross between mayonnaise and gribiche in terms of final result, it’s made in the same way as both, up to a point, which is by slowly adding olive oil to a punchy mixture of chopped, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies and fresh herbs - all the fun stuff! Plus, it’s the perfect partner for fat asparagus spears; at this point in the season, they are PLUMP. Cambridge sauce is often described as a ‘substitute for mayonnaise’, albeit the egg yolks are cooked. Original sources citing the sauce are rare. The Old Foodie website notes that it appears in The Modern Cook (1860), attributed to a royal cook (for Queen Victoria) called Charles Elmé Francatelli. There are few other mentions. So, let’s give it a moment! I first heard of the dish at London’s Towpath Cafe, a famous waterside restaurant in Hackney serving perfect plates of simple, seasonal food. On a sunny day, it’s an idyllic spot. I hope the below recipe gives you a taste of it, or indeed for it!
Asparagus with Cambridge Sauce 8 hard-boiled egg yolks Bring a pan of salted water to a boil for the asparagus and have a bowl of cold water ready. In a small bowl, combine the egg yolks, anchovy fillets, capers, the two mustards, cayenne and white wine vinegar. Mash everything together with a fork until you have a paste. Slowly drizzle in the oil as if making mayonnaise, mashing and stirring everything together. You’ll end up with a lovely, thick sauce. Stir through the herbs and season with salt. Cook the asparagus for 1 minute, then drain and plunge into the cold water - this will keep its bright green colour. Serve topped with the Cambridge sauce.
SUPERIZE ME! This week I’m leaning fully into asparagus szn and leaving you with what I think is an *essential* spring pasta recipe. Until next time, Flavour Fans x
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Tuesday, May 13, 2025
Flavour nugget #28: Cambridge sauce (don't let the name put you off)
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