April 2021 Newsletter

Coming from here and there...

May 1

I still find myself writing “2020.” For some reason the previous year is implanted in my brain, even though I’m going to speak for most of us and say that we’d like to put it in our rear-view mirror. So today, May 1st, I’m doing that. And you’re welcome to come with me.

I don’t know about you but I’m starting to get a taste of what normalcy is like, and I’m liking it. As someone who’s socially awkward, and just as happy to stay home on the couch propped up by two generous pillows with my feet up, and watch movies (or lately, crossword puzzles), I’m rediscovering the joys of having dinner with friends in their homes and in bars and restaurants while in the States.

Back in Paris, I took a pause from hitting the markets a few months ago due to pulsing crowds and being packed front-to-back in lines at the stands (so close I could feel the heat, and the breath, of the person behind me), which was never my favorite place to be before Covid hit, but the virus prompted me to do most of my shopping at a few of the smaller shops in Paris that specialize in local produce, where the quality is often better and you know who is growing the fruits and vegetables.

Some of my favorite places include Terroirs d’Avenir, Biocoop. Au Bout de Champs, Le Zigham, and C’juste Paris. The outdoor markets of Paris get a lot of press but these shops have lovely, often locally-grown produce and humanely-raised meat. The people that work in them are usually engagés, which means they are actively interested in sustainability and responsible agriculture. Another upside of going to Terroir d’Avenir is that I can pick up a bowl of Chicken Rice La at The Hood or a döner kabab at Surpriz, which often has a long, slow-moving line. Pro tip: Get there a few minutes before opening at 11:55am so you’re first up when they open. Another pro tip: I usually stop in the nearby M. Jacques bakery too, which is terrific.

With warmer weather sailing our way, strawberries and rhubarb are arriving, and I, for one, can’t wait for cherries, which are coming soon…j’espère. (I hope.) I often say, “I love cherries (or insert another fruit or vegetable there) and they’re my favorite of all fruits!” before launching into a recipe.

With the internet and search engines, those claims are all-too-easy to dispute as I’m sure I’ve conflicted myself many, many times, but it’s true that often whatever comes into season becomes my favorite. That includes not only cherries but apricots, plums, bear’s garlic, blueberries, bear’s garlic (ramps), spring onions, watercress, etc… I’m a cheerleader for whatever is new and delicious at the markets and I’m not going to apologize.

While in the U.S., not only did I get to get to get away from my non-functioning bathroom, which is now fixed, and the faulty pipe that was pumping a cascade of water into my bedroom is en route to being replaced🤞before my return, I took advantage of the more user-friendly time zones for Americans and scheduled a series of Instagram Live videos and Zooms. I’ve not-entirely-deftly pivoted to becoming a one-person production team: the booker, the director, and the producer (and marketing director, if you count posting notifications announcing them in advance), in addition to being the host, and often the guest, too.

It’s been a lot of fun and I get to have on whoever I want, whenever I want. (Although I’d happy if I could resign from my position as time zone specialist which requires using a certain part of my brain, which isn’t a part that’s particularly well-developed.) The best has been introducing viewers to people you wouldn’t normally see in the media, such as Margot Lecarpentier of Combat bar, Pierre-Olivier Rousseaux and Mat Sabbagh live from their distilleries in France, Paul Einbund’s amazing collection of vintage Chartreuse, Drinking French IG Apéro Hour Live fan-fave Maggie Beltrami, three-timer BTP, and of course, Romain. When he’s not with me, the usual question is “Where is Romain?!?”

Of course, I get a chance to be in front of the camera too, even if it’s just my telephone. But the biggest breakout star has been Romain. I’m biased but agree that he is adorable and fun, so stay tuned for more, coming soon… (Let’s get that pipe fixed!)

Lastly, a lot of people have asked me over the past year, “When is France going to open back up?” I wasn’t privvy to any special intel on that, I’m afraid, but they finally announced this week that as of June 9th, tourists will be able to visit France with a pass sanitaire. No one is quite what that is yet, but it will very likely involve proof of vaccination and probably a negative PCR test taken within 72 hours of one’s trip.

While infections are heading downward, Covid is still surging through the country and vaccines have been slow to arrive. Many people have had trouble getting appointments, while also, available doses aren’t getting used. So hopefully that will move along as a faster clip. (9% of people in France have had a shot.)

Young people couldn’t resist partying in the park in Paris last week and the government moved the nightly curfew to 7pm so people could enjoy an extra hour of apéros with friends, even though café and bars are closed. (Some have tables outside where people can get drinks à emporter, to go, but most are consumed sur place.) If you do plan to come, please be aware that many are still vulnerable to Covid and while some have become lax about following protocols, and vaccines are becoming more available, we are not out of this yet.

I’m excited for things to go back to normal and pray that people stay healthy and continue to look out for themselves, their friends and families, and others in their communities. Fortunately being outdoors is a happier and safer place to be. And I’m looking forward to being both.

-David

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Upcoming Events

May 1: I’ll be the guest for an online brunch with the Alliance Française of Boston, with drinks and discussion today. 11am ET. Register here.

May 3: Join me for a live online conversation with Brad Thomas Parsons and chef Renee Erickson talking about her new book, Getaway at 4pm PT. More information and free registration here.

May 9: Booksigning at Slope Cellars (and French Drinks Bar Boxes available too), Brooklyn NY. Time 2-3:30pm ET. Get a signed book - in person!

And Instagram Live Apéro Hours will include Current Cassis (May 4), K & L Wine Merchants (May 5, on their IG account), a birthday celebration of Chartreuse, and cocktail writer Robert Simonson (May 6) - times to be announced on my Instagram page the day of the events and dates, etc. are subject to change.

Links I’m Liking

Epicurious cuts meat from their menu, which quite a few people took issue with. I checked their database and for beef-lovers, they can still use one of the 1706 beef recipes on their website. (Eater)

How mochi ice cream took over America. (Vice)

Leggo my bartender, made of Lego. I’m not a bartender, but is it wrong I want one of me? (Punch)

These short-term rental apartments in Paris look sweet! (via Secrets of Paris)

French police bust 100 people eating in underground restaurant in Paris (where traditional restaurants have been closed in October), where dinner started at $260 and went up to $696 per person. Guests included, um…a French minister. (France24)

A deep dive into the world of French tacos. I still haven’t tried one…and still not sure I want to. (New Yorker/possible paywall)

The Amateur Gourmet reboots his Lunch Therapy podcast. And there was that time he turned his microphone on me, and almost made me cry. (Amateur Gourmet)

A plea to put the chips back in chocolate chip cookies…although I’m sticking to my ‘chopped chocolate’ guns. (Taste)

Sadly, San Francisco’s 20th Century Café to close its doors for good. (Eater SF)

Required viewing: Special season 2 returns to Netflix this month, which I found rather sweet, and if you haven’t seen Sound of Metal, it’s incredible. If you’d like a little escape, head to Corfu with The Durrells. (The last two on are Amazon Prime in the U.S. but you’ll have to scoot around to find a way, or place, watch them elsewhere.)

You know her, you love her. Margot Lecarpentier from Combat bar in Paris shares her delicious Burnt Peanut Daiquiri via IG video. À santé!

New recipes and posts on my blog

Yup, you can make Halvah at home. For years, one of my FAQs has been for a halvah recipe. So I was happy to find one in The Arabesque Table, by my friend Reem Kassis who unlocks the secret to this Middle Eastern, or Arabesque, treat that you can make at your maison.

I don’t know about you, but the age-old debate on whether muffins are or aren’t cake finally gets settled in Zoë François’ stunning Blueberry Muffin Cake from her new book, Zoë Bakes Cakes. It’s baked with a mound of fresh or frozen blueberries, topped with a glorious crown of glazed, toasted pecans. Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or dessert, you’ll find this irresistible muffin/slash/cake delicious any time of the day.

I leaned into online live appearances in April, taking advantage of being in a few different time zones in this round-up of appearances and events. I’ll be taking off my tracking bracelet later this month, but for the time being you can follow me at these live events happening in May. One is happening in an hour, so I better get this newsletter out so I can set up…

After a trip to Corsica in 2014 (sigh…vacation travel…) where I enjoyed Canistrelli, I was determined to add these classic cookies to my repertoire. With a hint, and hit, of anise, these cookies are great for dipping in wine or in an apéritif, or as a snack with a cup of coffee or tea. For those who like cookies that lean toward the savory side, these unique cookies are for you! And me, too.

When I finished watching the Hemingway biography, I had a new perspective on the celebrated author. My conclusion was that he was complicated; A brilliant writer whose personal life wasn’t smooth sailing. He spent much of his time in Cuba where he enjoyed many Daiquiris, including this one, dubbed the Hemingway Daiquiri, that skips the sugar syrup, and focuses on the tangy grapefruit and lime juice.

I’ve been intrigued by plant-based “meat” alternatives which have become popular in the last few years. So when it came time to mix up a batch of Spiced Kefta, I gave one of them a go. From “Thank you for a vegetarian version!” to “That’s not kefta!” (yes, there are vegetarian versions of kefta/kofta out there, as well as fish), I got an earful from about meat alternatives.

I like to keep an open mind when it comes to food - although I’m still not eating squid because they scare me. But that’s another story. Verdict? I’m still eating meat, but interesting to stir the pot from time to time and try something new.

-dl

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