Debates about international trade have been prominent in politics since NAFTA in the 1990s. When it comes to coffee, a truly global commodity, much of the effort towards reform has come in the form of a voluntary fair trade movement, which focuses on minimum prices for growers and other safeguards for those who cultivate the beans shipped and roasted all over the world. At the north end of downtown Phoenix, Fair Trade Cafe has spent the past decade-and-a-half affirming this fair trade concept through not only its practices, but also through its name.
fall flight
Fair Trade occupies a retail spot in the Roosevelt Square apartments, one of the earliest and still most attractive residential projects in the current wave of downtown redevelopment. The location is directly across the street from the Roosevelt/Central light rail station. A bike rack is found right outside, and others are located throughout the surrounding blocks of Roosevelt Square. The main entrance faces First Avenue, and a second door in back allows the shop to be entered from the shaded patio that provides an outdoor seating option in almost all weather.
smoked salmon bagel
The interior has high ceilings and plentiful natural light filling a space defined by a mix of counters, lounge-style seating, and more traditional tables. The food menu is displayed on an overhead board while the selection of coffee and other beverages is portrayed vertically on a nearby column. Naturally, the emphasis is on coffee, whether a basic brew, espresso, cold brew, or a frozen cafecito. The last item is one of many manifestations of the coffee shop's Latin American influences, and it's not uncommon to hear the clientele conversing in Spanish.
avocado toast
Fair Trade becomes even more ambitious with its signature and seasonal drinks. Several are offered throughout the year. The Phoenix combines cold brew with agave, cinnamon, and a choice of milk.The Jefita is similar but replaces the cold brew with espresso, and the Guerita focuses on white chocolate instead of cinnamon. For anyone who wants to try all three, an OG Cafecito flight is available with small glasses of each one of the iced beverages aesthetically presented on a wooden board for sampling, sequential enjoyment, and social media sharing.
chicken curry sandwich
A similar approach is taken with seasonal drinks. Fall specials have included Sweater Weather, a white chocolate chai drink with pumpkin foam that celebrates the time around Halloween when cold weather clothing can finally emerge from the back of the closet; Cajetita Latte, a drink of steamed milk and espresso with caramel and fall spices; and Cafecito Calebaza, a latte with notes of pumpkin and macadamia nuts. As with the regular beverage offerings, all three can be combined into a fall flight, just as lighter, fruitier beverages can be during spring and summer.
truffled grilled cheese
Food at Fair Trade involves mostly light fare like sandwiches, salads, soups, and a few other items oriented towards breakfast and lunch. Some, like a turkey sandwich with provolone are straightforward and simple, others are a little more complex. The truffled grilled cheese picks up a little tang from sun-dried tomatoes, and the chicken curry sandwich obtains some crunch from diced celery. An everything bagel envelops generous slices of smoked salmon with thick-cut tomato and copious cream cheese. A side of chips or salad accompanies all these items.
veggie quesadilla
Additional choices include wraps, burritos, and quesadillas all fashioned from flour tortillas. The burrito emphasizes black beans while the quesadilla's predominant filling is roasted bell peppers. There is also a daily soup offered, and recent choices have included loaded potato and clam chowder. More breakfast-oriented choices include steel cut oatmeal and stuffed croissants filled with ham, cheese, and eggs. Smoothies can function as a liquid breakfast. Some are simply pureed fruit, and others add coconut or almond milk as another ingredient.
chocolate croissant and cafe au lait
Coffee houses typically offer some pastry with their beverages, and Fair Trade usually has a selection of croissants, cookies, or muffins that function as snacks or desserts after a meal here. Displays of work by different local artists each month add to the decor and vibrance of the shop. After all its years at this site, the cafe has become one of the few original Roosevelt Row pioneers still operating. Amid political debates spanning multiple administrations over free trade and tariffs, Fair Trade has endured at Roosevelt and Central with far less controversy.
1020 N. 1st Ave., Phoenix AZ 85003
https://azfairtrade.com
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