A riff on stuffed cabbage, a creamy pasta and gingery cabbage rolls prove why the leafy green is a home-cooking favorite.
| Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. |
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May Cabbage Reign Forever |
Good morning. I saw my friend the osprey soaring over the bay on Sunday, back from her winter sojourn, and green tips on some of the trees in the woods. I bet we're a month from pea shoots, with asparagus hot on its heels. |
Until then, though: Cabbage continues its reign. And Melissa Clark has a fantastic new recipe to please the court: roasted cabbage with Parmesan, walnuts and anchovies (above). It's her riff on a classic stuffed cabbage, though considerably easier to make, with a delightful balance of textures and tastes. It'd be great on its own, but maybe even better with some flattened chicken thighs. |
Not that you need a proper recipe to make delicious food. You can instead riff off a prompt and see where it leads you. I'll offer one now: spicy roast chicken tacos with watermelon muchim. It's something I made over the weekend after reading my colleague Eric Kim's exciting new cookbook "Korean American" and then leaving the book on my desk at work, so I couldn't use his written recipe at home. |
Here's what I recalled: cubes of boneless chicken thighs marinated in a sauce of whizzed-up jalapeños, cilantro, garlic, olive oil and a little salt, black pepper and sugar, then roasted on a sheet pan until crispy. While that cooked, I made the muchim: cubes of watermelon tossed with gochugaru, salt and black pepper, slices of jalapeño and a dressing of rice vinegar, fish sauce and sesame oil. Then I heated some tortillas and, wow, that all made for great tacos. Maybe give that a try? |
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Now, it's nothing to do with Spam or polenta, but I've been enjoying the Swedish crime drama "Before We Die," on Amazon Prime. (Starring Alexej Manvelov, so good in "Undercover.") |
In more cookbook news, I've been thrilling to Pat Martin and Nick Fauchald's exhaustive, practical and delicious live-fire treatise "Life of Fire," which makes me long for long summer days spent cooking and picking pigs. Soon! |
Finally, here's a new Soccer Mommy track: "Shotgun." "Cold beer and ice cream is all we keep/The only things we really need." Listen to that while you're in the cabbage patch, and I'll be back on Friday. |
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