I'm away this week and next on a family vacation. So I'm turning over this space to a couple of Kitchn editors that I'd love for you to meet. This week: Nina Elder, our brilliant executive food director.
Can I tell you how excited I am about produce this year? After the year we've had, the reassurance that comes with seeing all the green things start to pop up at the market gives me real hope, which is something we all need right about now. But of all the green things, I've gotta tell you that I have a real soft spot for asparagus, which is the king of veggies in our house. Allow me, if you will, to explain that a bit.
In most families, you have to encourage the kids to eat their veggies, but in our family it's my husband who needs the nudging. And I'm not speaking out of turn here. Matt and I have discussed this a lot. When our son, Gus, was little, Matt stayed home with him. One of the things that Matt was really focused on was feeding Gus lots of different vegetables early and often. He steamed sweet potatoes, puréed them, and sprinkled in a little curry powder. He smooshed up avocado and added a little cumin. This kid ate like a king — and he ate pretty much everything that Matt put in front of him. When Gus got a little older, a pile of greens showed up on his plate at pretty much every meal, along with cherry tomatoes and cucumbers.
Why the laser-focus on veggies? Because Matt was determined to have Gus default to veggies, something that's not his personal default. Growing up, Matt wasn't a veggie fan and that aversion stuck around. He definitely eats vegetables now, but they're not the first thing he reaches for. Unless it's asparagus.
I noticed when we were dating that there was almost always a bundle of the green spears in the fridge. Matt would roast them or sauté them or add them to one of the dishes he used to woo me: risotto with asparagus and deeply caramelized onions. The creamy rice, crisp-tender asparagus, and unctuous onions were an incredible combo and showed me that not only could he cook, but that he was also a thoughtful, patient person because both risotto and caramelized onions are labors of love.
But back to the asparagus. What's not to love? It's mild, easy to cook, and super versatile, and raw asparagus stalks can also be repurposed as a scepter or magic wand, if you ask Gus. It's also so pretty — the slender stalks; those spiky, tender tops that sometimes have a little purple blush. And there's something supremely pleasing about seeing the bundles standing sentinel at the grocery store or the farmers market. A small moment of order amidst the chaos.
And now is prime time for these tender spears. Lucky for you, we happen to have tons of ways to use them: breaded and turned into fries (!!); baked on a stunning, springy tart; puréed into a silky green soup — and lots more. Oh, and don't forget that you can always add a few spears to some swoon-worthy risotto.
Yours in love and asparagus, Nina FOLLOW NINA
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Sunday, April 11, 2021
The power of asparagus
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