Brioche is a soft-textured, slightly sweet, rich-tasting bread often made with sugar, milk, and heaps of eggs and butter. I recently came across a recipe calling for 6 eggs and 20 tablespoons of butter. The recipe yielded one loaf.
One loaf! Two and a half sticks of butter for one loaf!
Even if that brioche is the brioche to end all brioches, I will never make it. I can't get myself to load dough up with so many enrichments knowing that a lean dough — one made with flour, water, and salt alone — can produce something completely delicious and satisfying.
Moreover, I know that a modest amount of enrichments goes a long way. With challah, for example, the inclusion of two eggs and a little bit of oil and honey yields a light and airy loaf, golden-hued, soft-textured, and rich tasting.
Would using even more eggs, oil, and honey make that challah that much better?
I don't know — I've never tried! But my hunch is no. For me, the law of diminishing returns applies with bread: at a certain point, more eggs, oil, butter, sugar, and milk won't make a loaf of bread materially better.
The first brioche bread recipe I made came from the original Tartine cookbook. I recently re-read the introduction to that recipe, which notes that "different types of brioche dough are made depending on how they will be used, with the formulas varying primarily in the percentage of butter."
Tartine intentionally makes a less-rich brioche because they use it for bread pudding and bostock, and they "need the crumb structure to hold up" to the rich ingredients they use in these recipes.
And this is perhaps the most compelling reason in my mind to make a "light" brioche: if you view brioche mostly as a vehicle for making exceptional bread pudding, French toast, and the like, it might be wise to save all of those eggs and all of that butter for a recipe in which they'll really shine.
Get the recipe and watch the video for this "light" brioche bread here:
Two Recipes to Make with Your Homemade Brioche
Overnight French Toast
Brioche Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce
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